The First Settlers
The earliest evidence of human habitation in the
South Rhins is around 8000 BC when Middle Stone
Age nomadic tribes from Europe followed the receding
ice sheet which had covered this part of the world,
and settled in the valleys and along the coast.
Their campsites, showing a reliance on stone,
wood, bones and antlers for tools and weapons, have
been discovered on the shores of Wigtown Bay, Loch
Ryan and Luce Bay as well as along the river valleys
where they were probably attracted by the area’s
dense forests as much as by its warm, damp climate.
The next inhabitants - farming groups who arrived
around 4000 BC - built permanent settlements and
many artefacts and flints from this Neolithic Age have
been found at the Mull of Galloway.
Bronze & Iron Ages
These Stone Age farming groups were followed
by other settlers who originated from among the
Celtic peoples of Central Europe though they were
not the same Celts who invaded centuries later.
By 2500 BC, Bronze Age metalworkers and
merchants had settled in the area, to be followed in
turn by Iron Age dwellers whose influence was such
that the Celtic language was to become dominant in
Galloway for over one thousand years from their
arrival in 700 BC to the end of the 6th Century.
Around 400 BC, the Celts invaded Ireland before
crossing over to the west of Scotland where these
Iron Age warriors built substantial hill forts and
constructed fortified settlements - called Crannogs
on artificial islands in the middle of lochs.
The Romans
Under the command of Julius Agricola, the
Romans arrived in the Solway area around 80 AD
and, within two years, had become established in
Dumfries and Galloway. Marching camps were
established at Gatehouse of Fleet and Girvan and
Roman coins have been found at Stoneykirk along
with other artefacts at nearby Clayshant.
But the Romans never fully conquered Dumfries
and Galloway, nor did they penetrate the interior,
concentrating instead on patrolling and trading along
the coastline and keeping to coastal areas.
Yet their influence remained with the local people
long after they finally left in 410 AD for they left the
foundations of Christianity as evidenced by the
Kirkmadrine Stones and their Latin inscriptions.
Saints, Saxons & Vikings
Scottish Christianity began in Galloway when St
Ninian laid the first stone at Whithorn around AD 397
and within Ninian’s lifetime, Christianity was flourishing
within The Rhins. By the middle of the 6th Century,
two abbeys, eight other parish churches and as many as
34 chapels marked the Rhins of Galloway as an important
centre of early and Medieval Christianity. Unfortunately,
none have survived intact though the most famous of
all - St Medana’s Cave and Chapel - are commemorated
within the name of Kirkmaiden.
The turbulent times of the Dark Ages saw Galloway
being absorbed into the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of
Northumbria in the mid-7th Century and later became
a Norse earldom, ruled from Norway. Indeed, it was to
remain under Norse rule until 1057 when King Malcolm
brought Galloway close to the Scottish Crown.
King, Crown & Covenant
By the 13th Century, despite writings referring to “the
French, the English, the Scots and the Gallovidians”, the
independence of Galloway had diminished in the interests
of nation building. The War of Independence came and
went with Galloway supporting the unsuccessful Balliol
against Robert Bruce but warfare with neighbouring
England continued for the next 300 years until the
Scottish and English Crowns were united in 1603.
But if temporal warfare declined, spiritual unrest
increased even though the Scottish Reformation was
accomplished with comparative ease to that in England.
In a period of deep religious strife, Galloway figured
prominently in the black episode concerning The
Covenanters and The Rhins was fortunate in that its main
religious dispute related to the siting of a church at
Drumniore still known today as the old Kirk Covenant.
Smugglers & Excisemen
Agricultural reform in the 18th Century led to
numerous land workers being displaced and, with an
extensive and rugged coastline at their disposal, many
turned to smuggling. Goods were brought ashore in
dead of night around Luce Bay and the Mull of
Galloway from the Isle of Man and Ireland.
Tea, brandy and tobacco were obvious cargoes
but high quality salt from Ireland and strong beer
from England were among the less obvious items that
escaped the attention and duties of the Excisemen.
Sadly, scant details survive about most of these illegal
activities as the Excise Records were destroyed but
on a precarious coastline, 18th and 19th Century
smuggling was a very precarious way of life and far
removed from the glamorous image that history
and Hollywood have given it.